David Mitchell

I’ve declared my love of train stations here before, so naturally I got down ASAP to check out Belfast’s new Grand Central Station, opened on 8 September.

The last big station I passed through was Rotterdam Centraal. It’s a hard act to follow, with its awe-inspiring silver pointed roof. Grand Central has no external wow-factor, but perhaps that’s as it should be. Rotterdam is known for flashy and experimental architecture. Belfast is home of many cynics – and much social deprivation, some of it very close to the station. A monumental structure would jar. The overall tone and form of Grand Central are probably just right for what and where it is.

No bike parking yet though, which has been much commented upon. Not even a lamppost. I thought I was going to have to just leave when I found a handrail.  

Inside, the first impression is the sound – a low, echoey chatter, the like of which can probably only be heard in a handful of places on this island. It puts you in holiday mood. I bought a coffee, clicked on to the wi-fi, and started tapping out this.

The coffee was from a Yellow Door pop-up café. Its days, I assume with regret, are numbered, given Pret, Starbucks, and M&S Food, are soon to open. The station’s fun looking mezzanine was not accessible yet (a lot of ‘yets’). The toilets, I’m pleased to report, were functioning and good, quite different to the post-apocalyptic aesthetic of the ones in the old Great Victoria Street station. Outside them is a commendable free water station.  

Grand Central is huge, something that will hopefully prevent it from ever feeling crowded. There was quite a deployment of high-viz-ed Translink staff hanging around, apparently to provide reassurance to the discombobulated public. One member of staff had a dog that looked to be on welcome duties too. My visit coincided with a sunny interval, so I saw how the main, south-facing glass wall creates a carpet of bright parallelograms – a great complement to the pleasant background murmur.

Only buses so far. The ‘To trains’ area – where I hope to start my regular-enough journeys to Dublin – was, as yet, tantalizingly closed. (Ah, train anticipation!) Dublin’s Connolly Station will certainly look all the rougher now that it’s in direct contrast with Grand Central.

Grand Central is sort of grand and fairly central; perhaps not a ‘destination station’ (if that’s not too confusing) but a very agreeable functional one. And if it can surround itself with bicycles, it will look all the better.